Out of 28 votes
30 Kupaoa Street, A104
Pukalani, HI 96768
When the first business opened in the string of new, empty storefronts at Kulamalu Town Center in Pukalani, we were elated to hear it was a new venture by renowned Maui chef Jeff Scheer and his wife, Kaili Scheer. Restaurant Marlow opened in mid-2021, and it has quickly become an Upcountry staple and is busy as can be. They don’t take reservations, so be sure to get there early!
First and foremost, Marlow is known for its Neapolitan-style sourdough pizza. The menu boasts a variety of red and white pies cooked in a kiawe wood-fired oven imported directly from Italy. Staying true to Neapolitan characteristics, the oven runs at a high temperature (a whopping 900 degrees), and pizzas cook in 90 seconds flat. We opted for the red Salsiccia pizza, made with pork sausage, caramelized onion, mozzarella, and a white pie with potato, basil, pesto, mozzarella, and parmigiano. Not only did the pizzas arrive at our table in record time, but they ticked all the boxes of Neapolitan style- slightly charred with an airy crust and wet in the middle. I preferred the white pie to the red, but there is just something about potatoes on pizza that I can’t get enough of.
The menu at Marlow also boasts a short but diverse list of Italian-inspired appetizers, and we noticed the use of local ingredients from nearby farms. In addition, our server mentioned that some of the meat used in house is local, which isn’t a given at every restaurant. We went for the burrata for our first appetizer, a type of Italian cheese made from cream and mozzarella. The dish was piled high with perfectly ripe cherry tomatoes grown in Olinda, as well as shreds of basil and sherry vinaigrette. Although this was my first time trying burrata, I can confidently say that I have yet to taste a better cheese.
Secondly, we tried the meatball en sugo- two massive pork and beef meatballs smothered in pomodoro sauce and parmigiano with a slice of toasted house sourdough tucked in. Simply the presentation alone made it hard to wait as I snapped photos, and my eager fiance was practically drooling, albeit very patiently. When the time came to eat, we both agreed the dish tasted as good as it looked.
Despite being so full, we couldn’t leave without trying some gelato. Marlow offers a variety of flavors from locally-owned Ono Gelato, and it was, without a doubt, ono.
Marlow boasts a variety of wines as well as non-alcoholic beverages like ginger beer and locally brewed kombucha. However, we particularly enjoyed that Marlow serves draft beers from Mahalo Aleworks, the brewery next door. After all, can you name a better duo than local craft beer and handmade, wood-fired pizza? I’ll wait.
Marlow doesn’t take reservations, and the dining room is a little on the smaller side, so we arrived at opening in hopes of getting seated right away. There was already a small line forming at 4:30, and everyone was promptly seated. Our server was sweet and attentive. The food came out in record time- we waited no more than five minutes after ordering each dish. This could be because they had just opened for the night, but we were nevertheless impressed.
The space at Marlow is chic and clean yet casual. The interior is stylish and simple, and the open layout allows guests to get a view of the pizza oven and pizza-making station. We took note of the bar seating, which adds at least another 10 seats into the slightly small space. Marlow also offers a few outside tables, so you can enjoy the cool Upcountry air. Marlow’s space on the corner also provides mountain views of Haleakala Crater. Or, order takeout and have views like the photo below!
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